Saturday, March 27, 2010

Visit to my hometown (A.K.A. Kumasi)

In Ghana, everyone is associated with a tribe. I decided to become an Asante for many reasons (though the main reason is that I speak Asante Twi and Asantes are strong). Anyways, so CIEE took us to the capital of the Asante Region, Kumasi. At one point, the Asantes had an empire that was bigger than Ghana and they fought the British colonists fiercely. They are probably the most powerful and populous group in Ghana.

Anyways, so last Friday we went to their capital, which is about 4-5 hours north. We visited the chief's palace, which was somewhat interesting. I think the best part were the peacocks roaming around and we even saw one open its tail, which was AMAZING. Then, we went to a market, which is the biggest market in all of West Africa. It was pretty big and crowded and very overwhelming. Everyone is shoving you every which way and screaming. The aisles are tiny and there is practically no room to breath, let alone walk. I ended up buying some fabric which I intend to make into a skirt. The most common way to buy clothes is to buy the fabric and then bring it to a seamstress. Then, Rivky, Zahava, and I went back a little early for shabbos. We ate a gourmet meal of hard bread, canned beans, and yam balls with a superb sauce and we had the same for lunch. Pretty fancy if you ask me. We slept a ton over shabbos in the luxurious air conditioning and enjoyed each others' company. Unfortunately, the rest of the group went on a exciting adventure to a lake and a village that we could not partake in.

Then Sunday morning we trekked back to campus and the bus literally stopped 7 times in a 4-5 hour drive for people to go to the bathroom. But at least I got to enjoy the A.C. on the bus for more time. Simple pleasures in life... AND we bought 15 bananas for 1 cedi (which is like 66 cents, but it's the small kind of banana).

Monday, March 22, 2010

Be our guest

After our great weekend in Sewfi Wiawso, we invited some of the kids to come visit us in Accra. Anthony, who is 22, Patrick, who is 20, and Sara who is 17 all made the journey down here last weekend. Patrick had been to Accra once and the other two had never been. They had been to Kumasi a couple of times, which is the second largest city in Accra, but they had never really seen anything like Accra. There are small skyscrapers here and tons of cars and traffic, which is very different than any other place in Ghana.

Also, though they are practicing Jews, they had never experienced an Orthodox Shabbat. We made challah, which they had not seen and traditional Ghanaian food for dinner and lunch. We did all the prayers in Hebrew and helped them to follow along. Also, we sang zmirot (traditional songs sung at Shabbat meals) and they were able to sing with the transliteration. Then, at the end of the third meal of Shabbat, they told us the Hebrew songs they knew and we all sang together. They knew Oseh Shalom, Adon Olam, and a couple more.

During dinner at one point another Jewish, but not observant, girl from CIEE walked in and introduced herself and told Patrick, Sara, and Anthony that she was Jewish. After she left, they questioned why wasn't she observing Shabbat with us, why wasn't she eating and singing with us. We explained that she's Jewish but does not practice the same way that we do. They did not really understand that if she had the opportunity to practice like us, why wouldn't she? Though the Jews of Sewfi Wiawso are not traditionally observant, they uphold certain principles and strictly abide by their practices. They were really baffled by the idea that this girl chooses to not practice; it was almost unfathomable to them.

Since Sefwi Wiawso is landlocked, they had never seen the ocean so after Shabbat we decided to take them there. There was a little restaurant/bar that has chairs on the sand that we went to and just relaxed. At first only Patrick was willing to put his feet in the ocean, but after much coaxing all three of them went in. It was really exciting for them to see the ocean for the first time, though it was at night. Also, for some reason there were tons of pigs roaming the beach. There were families of pigs, babies to old fogies just walking on the sand. As you can imagine, I was not so happy about the pig situation but somehow I made it work. Presumably, someone owns the pigs and lets them walk around at night, but why the pigs would choose to come to the beach is beyond me.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Sefwi Wiawso cont.

When we finally arrived at the village, several children came to carry our bags and bring us to where we were staying. We stayed with a large family in their little housing complex. There are lots of bedrooms surrounding a grassy area that has some roaming chickens and goats. There is an area used for cooking with large pots and a little outhouse. The reasons there are so many bedrooms is because there are many people. There is one husband, two wives, and eleven kids, though some of the kids are married so have moved out. I'm not sure how many family units there are like this, but there are about 100 members of the community in general.

We went to the room were staying in, which is also the common room of the house and the father, Joseph, recited the traditional Friday night blessings in English (Kiddish on Coke, motzei, etc) and sang a couple songs in Twi praising God. They did not eat a meal though, they eat just had a bite of bread. Then, they left and we settled in a little bit and ate a gourmet meal of bread and canned food.

The next problem we faced was the bathroom. To begin, it's a stone seat on top of a large hole in the ground. There is no running water. Second of all, we had to walk outside in order to get to it and we had to bring our own toilet paper, but there was no eruv to carry it. We were very creative and made belts, scarves, and necklaces. Also, because of the way the stone is designed, we cannot squat or else we would miss the hole. So we lined the stone with TP and hoped for the best. Later when we returned to Accra we told our Ghanaian friends about this and they were horrified. Apparently you are supposed to stand on the stone and then squat. But no one explained this nuance to us. As you can imagine, we greatly limited our trips to the bathroom.

The next day, we went to synagogue, which was in a small building about ten minutes away. When we finally arrived at the village, several children came to carry our bags and bring us to where we were staying. We stayed with a large family in their little housing complex. There are lots of bedrooms surrounding a grassy area that has some roaming chickens and goats. There is an area used for cooking with large pots and a little outhouse. The reasons there are so many bedrooms is because there are many people. There is one husband, two wives, and eleven kids, though some of the kids are married so have moved out. I'm not sure how many family units there are like this, but there are about 100 members of the community in general.

We went to the room were staying in, which is also the common room of the house and the father, Joseph, recited the traditional Friday night blessings in English (Kiddish on Coke, motzei, etc) and sang a couple songs in Twi praising God. They did not eat a meal though, they eat just had a bite of bread. Then, they left and we settled in a little bit and ate a gourmet meal of bread and canned food.

The community does not observe Shabbat like we do, so there were some difficulties with that. They use electricity so when the left our rooms, they left the lights on so we had to sleep with them on. Luckily, they also left on the fans, though.

The next problem we faced was the bathroom. To begin, it's a stone seat on top of a large hole in the ground. There is no running water. Second of all, we had to walk outside in order to get to it and we had to bring our own toilet paper, but there was no eruv to carry it. We were very creative and made belts, scarves, and necklaces. Also, because of the way the stone is designed, we cannot squat or else we would miss the hole. So we lined the stone with TP and hoped for the best. Later when we returned to Accra we told our Ghanaian friends about this and they were horrified. Apparently you are supposed to stand on the stone and then squat. But no one explained this nuance to us. As you can imagine, we greatly limited our trips to the bathroom.

The next day, we went to synagogue, which was in a small building about ten minutes away. The synagogue is a small building with a few rows of benches. There were about eight men, a couple of women and lots of children. There was one man who led the service using a Sim Shalom siddur (Conservative prayer book) in English. He read several psalms and went through most of the service. The whole congregation they recited Shma together in Hebrew. For the Torah service, the leader took out a mini-Torah, like one used in a children’s service and brought it around the room for people to kiss. He then read verse by verse out loud in English from a Hirsch Chumash, explaining in GREAT detail every verse and then he repeated in Twi. He then did the same for Haftorah. As a side note, it was EXTREMELY hot and the fans were not on. I was pretty uncomfortable throughout the service due to the heat. The service was concluded with a song in Twi, which I now know.

We went back to our rooms to find the fans had been turned off, so at this point I was pretty aggravated with heat. We ate our lunch of bread and canned food and we then took naps. I think the sheets were drenched in sweat when I woke up. There was one eight-year-old girl there, named Rachel, who hung around us. She was incredibly sweet and adorable. Rivky taught her to sing a Hebrew song (Modeh Ani) and she sort of taught us a song in Twi. She showed us how she’s learning the Hebrew alphabet and how she can write her name. She was our guide throughout the weekend.

We concluded Shabbat and afterwards, we hung out with all the kids in our rooms. We got to know them well and eventually we invited them to come to us for Shabbat (foreshadowing for the next post!).

We woke up a few hours later (at 4:30 AM) to begin our journey back to Accra, which luckily took only eight hours, as opposed to thirteen. Again there were some problems with chickens. The bus from Sefwi Wiawso to Kumasi was fine. From, Kumasi, we took a deluxe tro-tro to Accra. We had made French toast a few days earlier and were planning on eating it for breakfast on Sunday (it has not been refrigerated for three days and though it tasted a little off surprisingly no one got sick). Anyways, so I had to do a ritual wash of my hands before eating the bread so as I got off the tro-tro to wash, a woman got on with a live chicken in a plastic bag with its head sticking out. She put the chicken on the floor EXACTLY where I was sitting and Rivky told her that I was sitting there, but the woman did not move it. Meanwhile, I had already washed my hands, which means I cannot speak so I’m motioning vigorously to move the chicken, while half laughing half crying. I jump onto Rivky and the whole tro-tro is laughing at me. Eventually, the driver moved the chicken to the back seat (which is where my bag was so I was not too happy about that either), and we were on our way. The driver made it back in what seemed like record time. No exaggeration, he passed every single car in front of him at every single point possible. Luckily, we made it back to Accra okay and when we took the tro-tro from Accra to Legon, the same chicken lady was on it with us!!!! It must have been fate!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Journey to Sefwi Wiawso

This weekend, Rivky Zahava, Zahava’s friend and I went to visit our fellow Jews in Ghana in a village called Sewfi Wiawso (pronounced Seshwi Wiawsho, but the sh also includes a whistle noise…as you can imagine, when we were telling people where we were going, they had no idea what we were saying so we have a piece of paper with the name written down). This village is not predominately Jewish, but does have several families and is the largest Jewish community in Ghana (apparently there are others…)


The journey was a long one to say the least. It took us almost 13 hours to get there. We left our dorm at 6 AM, got to the bus station at 7 AM and waited. There are no schedules here; you just need to wait for the buses to fill up, so we ended up waiting about three hours. Keep in mind that it’s Friday so we were concerned about making it in time for Shabbat. Anyways, so after the long wait and the traffic we arrived in Kumasi (one of the biggest cities in Ghana) more than 7 hours later, a trip which should take 4 hours. We got off the bus and were immediately surrounded by people who wanted to carry our bags or take us in their cabs. We hurriedly got in a cab that took us to the next bus station. At this point, time is definitely of the essence. The driver guarantees us that he is leaving in 10 minutes, which of course did not happen. We board the bus to take us to the village, filled with Ghanaians and a live chicken (there are tons of chickens always walking around and I strongly dislike them, so on the bus, Zahava stood next to the chicken as I passed it on the bus.) About 30 minutes later, we left only to turn around again. Everyone was screaming in Twi so we had no idea what was going on. Turns out, one person did not pay so we all had to go back. Meanwhile, the sun is slowly getting lower and lower and it becomes pretty clear that we will not be there before Shabbat.

In the meantime, the people of the village are consistently calling me to ask where we are but they do not speak English well, my phone is really bad quality, there’s music blasting, and everyone on the bus is screaming. As you can imagine, this was a slightly stressful situation.

Eventually, we arrived in the village, about 20 minutes after Shabbat had started. Surprisingly, there is no eruv and we have bags to carry. (On Shabbat, you cannot carry bags in a public domain so we could not carry our bags off the bus). Rivky had called her rabbi and he told us to carry the bags, but don’t stop walking with them; we needed to be continuously walking. So we got off the bus and began to walk in circles. Not only are we the only white people, but we are literally in the middle of the street walking in circles. Everyone was shouting at us “Oboruni, what are you doing?!” (Oboruni means white person). Taxi men were grabbing us and we just kept walking. There was one persistent guy who kept grabbing us and we kept walking away from him, but turns out, he was the person from the village who had come to take us back. I’m pretty sure EVERYONE thought (and maybe rightfully so) that we were absolutely insane.

TO BE CONTINUED!!!

Monday, March 1, 2010

Purim in Ghana

The Fast of Esther was on Thursday, which was also the same day as my Twi final and I had to teach in the morning. I was slightly nervous about fasting in the 90+ degrees weather with all this activity, but I knew that if I didn’t feel well I could break the fast. Luckily, I made it through the day with no water and no food.

On Thursday night, Rivky got a call that there was going to be a megillah reading in Accra on Saturday night! We knew another girl who was going so immediately after Shabbat, we rushed to hear the megillah in a random neighborhood. I cannot even tell you where we were, whose house we were at, who even read the megillah. All I know is that I showed up at some random guesthouse, which used to house the KJB, and now a random secular Israeli lives there. There were about twenty people there, mostly secular Israelis, a few Ghanaians, and some university students. A British man read the megillah and our mission was complete.

Meanwhile, we decided to host a Purim party that we called for 9:30, but we didn’t even get back until 9:30. Luckily, no one is ever on time in this country so people ended up coming closer to 11. We made TONS of Hamenstachen (I didn’t actually partake in the making because I was at my internship so props to all of Pentagon who helped!) of really creative fillings including pineapple and mango. The pineapple was surprisingly really good! Anyways, the party was a great success, with lots of music and people (though nothing could come close to comparing to Ghanakah). And I forgot to mention, that on Saturday during the day, we had no water and no electricity so we were worried that we were going to have to cancel the party, but the electricity came back, though we had no water for three days.

Anyways, the next day we attempted to make a gourmet breakfast in honor of Purim, but it didn’t come out so well. Our program had arranged to take us to the beach for the day, which was really nice. Rivky had arranged with her rabbi that we would call into his megillah reading in Baltimore and listen over the phone. But the problem was that we were on a beach with blasting music, wind, and waves so hearing was a potential problem. But have no fear, because Rivky found the ideal place for a megillah reading. There was this makeshift wooden bar that was not in use, so we sat under the bar to protect ourselves from the wind. As we were waiting for the reading to begin, a host of fishermen came pulling in their nets shouting, as Rivky was on the phone with the rabbi’s seven-year-old son trying to coordinate. He asked what the noise was and Rivky tried to explain that we were on a beach with fishermen. Our perfect place wasn’t so perfect anymore. As we were searching for an alternative location, the fishermen left, so we got our bar back! Our little shack protected us from the wind and we miraculously could hear every word of the megillah and we even booed at Haman’s name.